If you’re interested in creating your own sewing patterns, you’ve probably come across the term “basic block pattern” for the first time. At first, it might seem intimidating or even a bit scary—do you really need to learn complex drafting techniques? The good news is, it doesn’t have to be overwhelming. How much you need to learn depends on your goals and how deep you want to dive into custom pattern making. Whether you want to make one-of-a-kind garments for yourself, create clothing for clients, or even sell sewing patterns, there’s a method that fits your needs.
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What Is a Basic Block Pattern and Why Do You Need It?
A basic block pattern (also known as a sloper) is the foundation of garment construction. It is a simple, close-fitting pattern without seam allowances or design elements, serving as the starting point for creating various styles. By modifying a basic block, you can design custom garments that fit your body or your clients’ measurements perfectly. Imagine you want to create pants or skirts or dresses and you need a template that you can customize that is created for your unique measurement or the measurements of your clients, or they are made for standard optimized to your niche specific sizes if you create cloth for sale.
Now that we understand the importance of a basic block pattern, let’s explore different ways to get one.
Three Main Methods to Get a Basic Block Pattern: From the Most Complex to the Easiest
Before jumping into the fun part—designing and modifying patterns—you first need a well-fitting basic block. There are three main ways to get one, ranging from the most complex, which involves drafting by hand, to the easiest, using online tools. Let’s break them down so you can choose the best method based on your needs and experience level.
Method 1: Drafting by Hand (A Traditional but Time-Consuming Approach)
Creating a basic block pattern by hand is a skill-intensive process with a long learning curve. It involves precise calculations, drafting measurements, and adjusting for fit. While it’s a valuable skill for professional pattern makers, hobby sewists or small handmade business owners may find it tedious and time-consuming.
Some well-known pattern drafting methods around the world include:
- Müller & Sohn (Germany) – A widely respected method with precise drafting rules.
- Martí (Spain) – A traditional Spanish system used in pattern drafting.
- UK (Winifred Aldrich, Natalie Bray) – Popular among British pattern makers.
- USA (Helen Joseph-Armstrong) – Common in American fashion design.
These are just a few examples of traditional drafting systems. Each method has its unique approach, but all require skill and patience. When I was learning textile design, I learned the Müller method, and still, when I need specific drafting help, I go to their shop to purchase one of their downloadable tutorials. You can see in the image below my old 1/4 scale mini dress basic block pattern from my pattern-making class decades ago, along with the paper ruler and the measurement table we used. I’ve kept it all these years, and let’s just say… it has seen things! However, when I can, I skip drafting from scratch and go with online tools to save time and effort.
Method 2: Getting Standard-Size Basic Blocks
If drafting a pattern by hand sounds overwhelming, you can obtain ready-made basic blocks in standard sizes. This option saves time and allows you to focus on design modifications.
Here are a few places to get standard-size basic block patterns:
- Etsy – Independent designers offer digital and printed slopers.
- Design Lab London – Provides professional-grade base patterns.
- Other Independent Sellers – Various online shops offer pre-made pattern blocks.
These sources provide a shortcut to starting your pattern-making journey without the hassle of manual drafting.
Method 3: Generating Made-to-Measure Blocks Online
Using online sewing pattern generators can significantly cut down the time and effort required to draft a basic block. These tools allow you to create made-to-measure patterns or select standard sizes, often with customization options. Here are some of the most popular platforms:
- Tailornova – One of the first platforms to offer made-to-measure patterns. You can use it for both personal and commercial projects. A great feature is its ability to generate patterns for knits without darts.
- Sewist – Suitable for both personal use and selling clothes, Sewist is best for woven fabrics and is my favorite among online tools.
- Pattern Lab London – This platform stands out because it provides blocks for jeans and dancewear, making it an excellent choice for specialized projects.
- Mislope – A newer platform that focuses on swimwear and activewear, offering a unique selection compared to other tools.
- Aiclo – An AI-powered pattern generator with a growing library. I especially like it for its patterns for sweatshirts and other knit garments.
As you can see, you can find basic blocks for almost anything. What makes these platforms even more appealing is that most of them offer not only basic blocks but also various pre-designed styles. You can customize your patterns by selecting design elements such as sewing lines, dart locations, necklines, and sleeve styles.
If you want to know more about online pattern generators, you might like this post where I dive deeper into how to use them.
Final Thoughts
Choosing the right method depends on your goals. If you’re a professional or enjoy craftsmanship, drafting by hand might be worth it. But for hobby sewists or small business owners, purchasing standard blocks or using online sewing pattern makers is a smarter, time-saving choice. With today’s technology, you can effortlessly create perfectly fitting garments and bring your fashion ideas to life!
Just a tip—no matter which method you choose, it’s always a good idea to test your new basic pattern by creating a toile first. This helps you identify any necessary adjustments before moving on to your final fabric. When using online pattern maker websites, you can optimize your measurements, so once you detect which areas need tweaking, you can refine them in your profile. That way, your next project will have an even better fit. This is exactly what we do in the Buddy Positive Pattern Playground, my pattern-making membership for sewists and fashion aspirants, where we turn this process into a fun challenge!