Creating engineered patterns for swimwear

WHAT IS AN ENGINEERED PATTERN? Engineered patterns in the apparel market are very common. Some companies don’t like to use too much of them in a collection because they increase the cost of production. Others specialize in using engineered prints for more sophisticated pieces. Engineered patterns are also called placement patterns. A single motive or the whole layout has to be placed in a special part of the garment. It is designed to make the later production process as uncomplicated as possible. It can be a print in the centre of a T-shirt, a border print on a skirt or dress, or anything else which has to be placed on a certain piece. In the swimwear industry, it is a special process because of the small size of the pieces of the garments, like a triangle bra. But for any market you are creating, you should first decide upon the kind of garment you want to design. You have to think not only about the places where you want a placement, but also the parts you want to keep plain and the ones where you want allover print, and their proportion. WHAT TO KEEP IN MIND WHILE DESIGNING FOR THE […]
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Go to the market for geometry!

Where else, other than in a market do I find geometrical inspiration for pattern design?   I had some intense days while on a holiday in the Mediterranean island Menorca, thanks to a nice friend. We took the ferry from Alcudia, Mallorca to Ciutadella, which is the second biggest town on the island. It is a nice trip on the boat, much better than taking an airplane. Walking around the beautiful town Ciutadella we arrived at a nice old building. The fish market “EL MERCAT DES PEIX” was built in the middle of the 17th century and underwent renovation in the late 19th century. It would be nice to know which period the modern looking tiles are from. They look so cool! This beautiful iron structured building is covered with green-and-white check tiles. On a closer inspection, you can see a part of an optical illusion effect which makes it more curious. I have always loved optical illusions and op art, so I couldn’t resist creating a collection with this inspiration. It just needed to be on fabric! Geometrical patterns are always trending and with a nice color palette it fits perfectly for the apparel, swimwear and activewear market. So here it is – the new […]
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Embroidery & Lace Patterns – The heritage

Both of my grandmothers were very well prepared in the world of textiles. My mother’s mother was always sewing for other people to supplement her nurse’s salary and was taught by her husband because he was a tailor. My other grandma started to learn embroider after her retirement. She was tarrific at creating traditional Hungarian embroidery called Kalocsai and at using a stitching style called Riseliő. She had her sewing machine specially prepared for this unique technique. It is a pity I couldn’t learn how to use it from her. But I have a beautiful heritage from her where I often go for inspiration for pattern design. The image above is the top part of a hat made by her. This is a typical lace-like Riseliő embroidery in white color. She also had a bunch of embroidery patterns I love. The way she used them is very typical in this area. She copied the original design pointing the outlines of the elements on a transparent paper she stowed on the top of the pattern. She made little holes and she rubbed a blue paint powder through the punctured lines on to a white linen fabric. After this process, she had the pattern ready to start to […]
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Summer floral for S/S17

This time of the year is perfect for a textile designer to search for floral inspiration. I often take pictures wherever I am. It helps to have patient people around when I see some beautiful plants and I make everybody stop because I’m hunting. It’s important to have a huge collection of photos of flowers for new patterns. Floral prints are always needed. I have just finished a new pattern collection, preparing for the season Spring/Summer 2017. For the central element of the main pattern, I chose the exciting flowers of the plant called “trompetas” (Solandra maxima).  I wanted to add the sensation of the moving sea, the glitter and the movement of floating, which for me means the total relaxation and freedom of the summertime. You can see in the sketches below how I planned to express the flow with moving flowers. The final patterns have been developed using digital manipulation. The color palette combines jungle green, amethyst, crown blue and exotic fruit colors, pink and orange. I softened these saturated colors with pastel shades. If you would like to see the entire collection of the patterns and you are a registered member click here. If you want to […]
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Dizzying Patterns

Working in the textile industry I often meet a special phenomenon. People working in the production side of this industry have a special relationship with textiles. They are the people who see designers’ patterns in the biggest format. It can be 1.5 meters x 5, 10, 20 … meters. They are the textile manufacturers, and those who work in the apparel production. They watch a huge surface with patterns for hours together. From my experience, I know that there are certain types of patterns that they would prefer to avoid (But they can’t). Let’s talk clear! Do you remember those strange pictures which you had to watch for a long time and something happened? Take the pattern below with black and white lines and see what happens. Move the pattern up and down to feel it better! How do you feel? Calm or irritated? Carry on with a primary color contrast in the next example. So this is how my co-workers felt when working with some patterns. This optical illusion produces annoyance and some people feel dizzy. There is nothing one can do but just stand it, but it’s interesting to realize this impact. I made a quick research and what I […]
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Color Inspiration – Fisherman

Finding inspiration just happens most of the time. I often take pictures of interesting color combinations I see around. I store them for later use. It’s important for a textile designer to have a collection of nice color palettes. When I need colors for a new pattern I just know where to go.                  
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STRIPES – Tricks for production-friendly textile patterns

While working in a swimwear company, I realised that not everybody loves stripes.  Stripes are evergreen and will never go out of fashion. From season to season pattern designers change their style, or techniques, but they always appear on the catwalks and the stores. Developing them is fun. But pattern makers and cutters just want to avoid working with them. The problem begins at the production sector. When an apparel company selects a fabric with stripes for their collection, there are different aspects they have to review before making a decision. The first is the quality of the final product they wish to achieve. The second is the cost. If they want good quality, the stripes have to be matched to create continuous lines on the finished garment. Let’s say they fabricate swimwear. The bikini bottom has to fit in the front. If doesn’t it just looks cheap. The pattern maker has to place the patterns with more space between each other, and this causes extra costs. It gets more complicated when the print has direction. The patterns cannot be rotated. This means more extra costs. In case of a high repeat, it’s even worse. They have to always fit to […]
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