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Creating engineered patterns for swimwear

WHAT IS AN ENGINEERED PATTERN? Engineered patterns in the apparel market are very common. Some companies don’t like to use too much of them in a collection because they increase the cost of production. Others specialize in using engineered prints for more sophisticated pieces. Engineered patterns are also called placement patterns. A single motive or the whole layout has to be placed in a special part of the garment. It is designed to make the later production process as uncomplicated as possible. It can be a print in the centre of a T-shirt, a border print on a skirt or dress, or anything else which has to be placed on a certain piece. In the swimwear industry, it is a special process because of the small size of the pieces of the garments, like a triangle bra. But for any market you are creating, you should first decide upon the kind of garment you want to design. You have to think not only about the places where you want a placement, but also the parts you want to keep plain and the ones where you want allover print, and their proportion. WHAT TO KEEP IN MIND WHILE DESIGNING FOR THE […]
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Dizzying Patterns

Working in the textile industry I often meet a special phenomenon. People working in the production side of this industry have a special relationship with textiles. They are the people who see designers’ patterns in the biggest format. It can be 1.5 meters x 5, 10, 20 … meters. They are the textile manufacturers, and those who work in the apparel production. They watch a huge surface with patterns for hours together. From my experience, I know that there are certain types of patterns that they would prefer to avoid (But they can’t). Let’s talk clear! Do you remember those strange pictures which you had to watch for a long time and something happened? Take the pattern below with black and white lines and see what happens. Move the pattern up and down to feel it better! How do you feel? Calm or irritated? Carry on with a primary color contrast in the next example. So this is how my co-workers felt when working with some patterns. This optical illusion produces annoyance and some people feel dizzy. There is nothing one can do but just stand it, but it’s interesting to realize this impact. I made a quick research and what I […]
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STRIPES – Tricks for production-friendly textile patterns

While working in a swimwear company, I realised that not everybody loves stripes.  Stripes are evergreen and will never go out of fashion. From season to season pattern designers change their style, or techniques, but they always appear on the catwalks and the stores. Developing them is fun. But pattern makers and cutters just want to avoid working with them. The problem begins at the production sector. When an apparel company selects a fabric with stripes for their collection, there are different aspects they have to review before making a decision. The first is the quality of the final product they wish to achieve. The second is the cost. If they want good quality, the stripes have to be matched to create continuous lines on the finished garment. Let’s say they fabricate swimwear. The bikini bottom has to fit in the front. If doesn’t it just looks cheap. The pattern maker has to place the patterns with more space between each other, and this causes extra costs. It gets more complicated when the print has direction. The patterns cannot be rotated. This means more extra costs. In case of a high repeat, it’s even worse. They have to always fit to […]
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